The 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée is a terrific effort still in its prime. Marked by scents of sweaty horse tack, it's also loaded with sweet black cherries, hints of smoke and dried herbs. Full-bodied and velvety, it finishes long and rich, with the suggestion of warm generosity. I suspect not everyone will love this wine, but for me, it beautifully captures the character of great, traditional Southern Rhônes.
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