The 2012 Argonne is superb. It is a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay vinified in 100% new oak, which is barely perceptible. Silky, nuanced and incredibly refined, the 2012 opens to reveal layers of Mirabelle, dried flowers, orange zest and apricot. The interplay of Aÿ richness and more mineral inflections makes for an absolutely compelling Champagne. Unlike most releases of Argonne, the 2012 needs a few years in bottle to be at its best. Today, it is decidedly taut, but impressive just the same. (Originally published in August 2020)
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