The Leflaive 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon – a significant portion of which, like other crus here, is worked by horse –smells of fresh apple, melon, lemon zest, and hints of brown spices. Lush and lusciously fruited on the palate it combines apple, peach, and melon with a pungently bitter-sweet suggestion of orange marmalade. With less lift and refreshment and a touch of warmth vis a vis other wines in this group, it partly compensates by dint of sheer richness of flavor and texture. I would be inclined to plan on enjoying it within 5-6 years.
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