While the VS and VSOP levels of the larger brands are often middling, you can find quality at higher levels, such as this Martell XO bottling. Mahogany in color, with a complex nose of candied orange peel, molasses, cedar and a distinct note of everygreen forest. On the smooth palate, there are big flavors of prune, balanced by baking spices like clove and cardamom, and the finish is woody but elegant.
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