The Bruno Rocca 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is gorgeous. Where do I start? There is a smoky fireplace-like element that I don't get in the Currá. It leans into ashy mineral or spent ember. It's just a hint, but it's enough to give this wine unique definition. At the back, there's plenty of dark fruit and pressed flower. But the Rabajà ultimately is defined by its terroir-driven minerality, which is more savory and salty than it is chalky. This cru is located in the village of Barbaresco with vines planted in the 1950s based on a massal selection. The soils are especially rich in limestone. Production is limited to 1,100 precious bottles.
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