The Leflaive 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles offers minerality, finesse, and lift that leave behind its premier cru siblings. Seductive lily, heliotrope and iris along with high-toned herbal and pit fruit essences on the nose find their counterpart in wafting, bitter-sweet perfume and pure essence of peach and quince on a silken palate. There is a Chevalier-like sense of salt and stone shimmering through curtains of fruit in the finish. But the appropriateness of diaphanous metaphors here should not mislead one into suspecting a lack of concentration. In the end, this is implacably persistence, encompassing a tactile dimension to its sense of chalkiness. Hints of honey and toasted almond well up as this takes on air, suggesting an additional dimension of future richness. I expect this will reward revisiting for a decade.
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